A sunset walk through Santa Lucia and along the waterfront is one of the lasting pleasures in Naples. You can stroll by the glass-enclosed Galleria Umberto I, off Via Roma across from the Teatro San Carlo. The 19th-century gallery is still standing today, although it's a little the worse for wear. It's a kind of social center for Naples, with lots of shopping and dining possibilities.

Naples's oldest cafe, dating from 1860, is the palatial Gran Caffè Gambrinus, Via Chiaia 1, near the Galleria Umberto I (tel. 081-417582). Along the vaulted ceiling of an inner room, Empire-style caryatids spread their togas in high relief above frescoes of mythological playmates. The cafe is known for its espresso and cappuccino, as well as pastries and cakes whose variety dazzles the eye. You can also order potato-and-rice croquettes and fried pizzas for a light lunch. Cappuccino goes for 2.20€ a table. The cafe is open daily 8am to midnight.

Opera -- The Teatro San Carlo, Via San Carlo 98, across from the Galleria Umberto (tel. 081-7972111), is one of the largest opera houses in Italy, with some of the best acoustics. Built in only 6 months for King Charles's birthday in November 1737, it was restored in a gilded neoclassical style. Grand-scale productions are presented on the main stage. December to October, the box office is open Tuesday to Sunday 10am to 1pm and 4:30 to 6:30pm. Tickets cost 23€ to 100€.

Bars & Clubs -- On its nightclub/cabaret circuit, Naples offers more sucker joints than any other Mediterranean port. If you're starved for action, you'll find plenty of it -- and you're likely to end up paying for it dearly.

Chez Moi, Via del Parco Margherita 13 (tel. 081-407526), is one of the city's best-managed nightclubs, strictly refusing entrance to anyone who looks like a troublemaker. This is appreciated by the designers, government ministers, and visiting socialites who enjoy the place. The crowd tends to be over 25. The place is open Friday and Saturday 10:30pm to 4 or 5am. Occasionally there's a cabaret act or a live pianist at the bar, but more frequently the music is disco. The cover is 13€ to 15€.

A leading Naples hot spot is Piazza di Spagna, Via Petrarca 101 (tel. 081-5754882), in Vómero. It features dancing Thursday to Sunday from September to July; go after 10pm and expect a 15€ to 18€ cover.

Most gay nightlife is centered in the Posillipo neighborhood, where you'll find Tongue, Via Mazonik 207 (tel. 081-7690800). It has a mixed crowd, a large part of whom are gay, dancing to techno music. It is open only on weekends 9pm to 3am and charges a cover of 12€.